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Manhattan Notes -
Restaurants
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Tuesday, 06 January 2009 22:47 |

H and H Bagels
Okay, so technically it isn’t a restaurant. Technically the most memorable “wait staff” is the guy outside the door hoping you’ll spot him some change on your way out. Technically there’s no indoor seating, and the servers are particularly businesslike, or, one might say, New York friendly. But that doesn’t stop H and H from distinguishing itself as a twenty-four hour all-night hotbed of doughy deliciousness that turn it into a restaurant because you can’t wait to leave the factory-atmosphere ordering area before digging into your little paper bag and experiencing carbohydrate heaven. The bagels are baking around the clock so they’re fresh and hot in all your standard flavors – plain, onion, poppy, pumpernickel, blueberry, everything, salt, sourdough. No, they won’t put a spread on for you (you can buy a tub of cream cheese and some lox to take with you if you choose to be that awkward person constructing a meal on the sidewalk). No, they won’t toast it – chances are it’s already hot, silly. And no, there are no extras, no frills, and definitely no smiles. But there is deliciousness. And there is the sweetness of being able to stroll or stumble into H and H at any hour of the night. You’ll be through your first bagel before you get out the door, but that’s okay, since most likely you’ll be ready to join the line again to get another.
H & H Bagels, 2239 Broadway at W. 80th Street. A dozen bagels cost eleven dollars.
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